Left Coast Bon Vivant

Belgian Style India Pale Ale: A style in development

2010-08-05T10:12:00.000-07:00

In honor of International Beer Day (August 5th), your host decided it might be useful to address the category of Belgian style IPAs.

For those who are unfamiliar with the category, BeerAdvocate offers the following description:

"Inspired by the American India Pale Ale (IPA) and Double IPA, more and more Belgian brewers are brewing hoppy pale colored ales for the US market (like Chouffe & Urthel), and there's been an increase of Belgian IPAs being brewed by American brewers. Generally, Belgian IPAs are considered too hoppy by Belgian beer drinkers.

Various malts are used, but the beers of the style are finished with Belgian yeast strains (bottle-conditioned) and the hops employed tend to be American. You'll generally find a cleaner bitterness vs. American styles, and a pronounced dry edge (very Belgian), often akin to an IPA crossed with a Belgian Tripel. Alcohol by volume is on the high side. Many examples are quite cloudy, and feature tight lacing, excellent retention, and fantastic billowy heads that mesmerize (thanks, in part, to the hops). "

Belgian IPAs are frequently now being brewed by California Brewers. While they often are seasonal or special offering, a few companies, such as Green Flash located near San Diego, offer a version year round. Green Flash's version, titled Le Freak, has the strong Belgian character of spice and banana, along with a pleasing bitterness in the finish. Stone Brewing also occasional bottles a Belgian style IPA.

Yesterday, your host had the chance to stop by the Rose & Crown Pub in Palo Alto. This bar tends to stock draft beer by local Peninsula brewers such as Palo Alto Brewing, Devil's Canyon, Mayfield, and Firehouse. On tap was "Pete's Support" Belgian IPA from Firehouse. The name being a spoof on the acclaimed "Pizza Port" brew chain in San Diego. This beer was excellent. It had a great spicy flavor, rich color, good lacing, and a pronounced bitterness as a result of additional dry hopping.

BevMo, City Beer, and Jug Shop all have excellent beer selections. You may also be available to find Belgian IPAs at select Whole Foods stores.

Gran Classico...a new bitters in town

2010-07-25T11:20:00.000-07:00

It is not a secret that your host is a fan of bitters. Campari, Cynar, Averna, Fernet...all add an alluring bitterness to cocktails and can often balance against sweeter components.

Recently, a new bitter arrived on the San Francisco market, and is making a big impact on the cocktail scene. It's called Gran Classico, an original bitter based on an 1864 recipe from Turin, Italy.

Unlike its cousin Campari (also another bitter in the Turin style), Gran Classico is darker in color, with a pronounced wormwood bite. Enthusiasts of absinthe will recognize that wormwood provides a bitter taste to absinthe and can help balance its licorice overtones. The taste of Gran Classico is different than most other bitters on the market and the wormwood and gentian stand out, as does rhubarb and bitter orange peel. Gentian is one of the main flavoring ingredients in Angostura bitters. Unlike Fernet, there are no minty/menthol overtones. Bottled at 28% abv, Gran Classico packs a punch and makes a flavorful Negroni when combined with gin and a high quality sweet vermouth.

While Gran Classico is now manufactured in Switzerland at a boutique distillery, its U.S. distribution rights are owned by Tempus Fugit spirits, based in Petaluma. Tempus Fugit imports and markets a variety of French and Swiss absinthes. (as well as Voyager Gin from Washington State). During their research, they came across Gran Classico bitter and decided to add it to the catalog due to its unique and wonderful flavor. In addition, the 2007 U.S. legalization of wormwood opened up access to the U.S. market (previously, thujone, a chemical in wormwood was illegal in the U.S. due to perceived hallucinogenic properties).

The bitter can be purchased at K&L Wine & Spirits and retails for $29.99.

Helpful Links:
http://www.tempusfugitspirits.com/
http://www.granclassico.com/
http://www.klwines.com/

Select Bars in SF that have Gran Classico cocktails on the menu:

15 Romolo
Jardiniere
Comstock Saloon
Cafe Des Amis
Alembic

Featured Cocktail:

Old Pal
1/2 oz. Gran Classico Bitter
1 oz. dry vermouth
2 oz. bourbon
Stir and serve over ice in a double old-fashioned glass. Garnish with a flamed orange peel.

Created by Jonny Raglin
Comstock Saloon, San Francisco

Patriotic Libations: Applejack and the Marconi Wireless Cocktail

2010-07-04T14:57:00.000-07:00

Given that today is the 4th of July, it seemed timely to comment on one of America's oldest spirits: applejack.

Applejack was born out of America's early fondness for hard cider. In the 1600 and 1700's, New Jersey apple farmers would leave hard cider out overnight in the winter cold, and would then skim off the ice in the morning. The resulting liquid residue was higher in alcohol, and earned the name New Jersey Lightning. The term "jacking" is another name for freeze distillation. Eventually, producers became more refined and started distilling the hard cider in traditional pot stills. This allowed for a cleaner spirit without excess cogeners and troublesome methanol that could cause blindness and a nasty hangover. While popular in America's early years, applejack waned in popularity over time as bourbon and rye whiskey became more prevalent.

Founded in 1780, Laird and Company is one of America's oldest distilleries and is the main producer of applejack and apple brandy today. Unlike many distilleries that closed down during prohibition, Laird was able to continue distilling apple brandy for "medicinal purposes."

By law, applejack is a blend of 35% apple brandy and 65% grain neutral spirit (at some point post-prohibition the law was changed to distinguish applejack from apple brandy). However, a much better product is Laird's 100 proof bottled-in-bond apple brandy (which is actually much truer to the classic applejack style). The flavor is more concentrated and is perfect for on the rocks sipping or perhaps with a splash of soda water. Some with sensitive palettes may find the spirit a little rough neat. Over 20 lbs of Virginia apples go into a single bottle of the 100 proof version.

Traditional American apple brandy differs significantly from its French counterpart, Calvados. Chiefly, American apple brandy is made from American apples and is aged in charred American oak barrels. This charred oak barrel aging makes the American product have a taste profile and color more in common with bourbon or rye whiskey. Calvados is made from French apples and is aged in French toasted Limousin oak, resulting in a lighter color and more delicate flavor.

In addition to Laird and Company, a number of boutique distilleries have started to make apple brandy including Clear Creek in Portland, OR, Germain-Robin in Ukiah, CA and St. George Spirits in Alameda, CA. However, their products, while excellent, tend to have a flavor and profile more in common with Calvados.

Due to the recent interest in classic and well made cocktails, applejack and apple brandy have seen a revival. An excellent drink that showcases the 100 proof version of Laird's is the Marconi Wireless.

Originally created at the Waldorf Astoria hotel in New York City, the Marconi Wireless is essentially an apple brandy Manhattan. It was supposedly named after the wireless genius himself when he came to visit the hotel in the early 1900's.

On this 4th of July, drink to a traditional American spirit!

Marconi Wireless Cocktail

2 oz Laird's 100 proof apple brandy
0.5 oz sweet vermouth (Carpano Antica is best, or to keep the cocktail patriotic, domestically made Vya works too)
Dash of bitters (Angostura works, or continuing on the patriotic theme, use Fee brothers barrel aged bitters)
Orange twist garnish

Stir all ingredients in a mixing glass with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass and flame orange twist over the rim. Serve cold. It is important not to add too much vermouth, or the delicate apple flavors will be lost.

Note: Many liquor stores on the West Coast now carry Laird's products. If you must, you can use their more common blended "applejack" product, but it is worth seeking out the pure 100 proof version.

Your host is back! (The Vieux Carre Cocktail)

2010-06-23T14:43:00.001-07:00

Well folks, it has been a little longer than expected, but your host is back to share more about liquor and unique sights.

The trip to South America was indeed interesting and well worth while, and the time since then has been filled with career research.

But now, it is time for a drink.

Your host recently went for cocktails at Alembic, a great bar located on Haight Street in San Francisco. On their menu was an usual twist to the Manhattan Cocktail, called the Vieux Carre.

This cocktail was originally developed by Walter Bergeron in New Orleans in 1937. He was the head bartender at the Monteleone Hotel. A boozy combination of cognac, rye whiskey, sweet vermouth, Benedictine, and 2 types of bitters, it is not a cocktail for session drinking.

Traditionally, this cocktail is served in a rocks glass over ice. The Alembic recipe calls for an "up" preparation, complete with a flamed orange peel. This difference in preparation makes a huge difference, as the flavors are deeper and more pronounced.

Also, it is important to use high quality ingredients in this cocktail. Use a 100 proof rye whiskey like Rittenhouse. As for cognac, a decent VSOP or older will add additional complexity. Using Carpano Antica sweet vermouth will ensure the drink does not become too sweet. A cheaper vermouth, as in the type in most well Manhattans, will destroy the drink and give it a syrupy flavor.

Enjoy!

Vieux Carre Cocktail

1 oz Rye Whiskey (Use Rittenhouse 100 proof)
1 oz Cognac (Use a V.S.O.P. or older)
1 oz Sweet Vermouth (Use Carpano Antica, or other higher end product)
1/2 oz Benedictine
Dash of Angostura Bitters
Dash of Peychaud's Bitters (A bitters native to New Orleans)

Stir above ingredients with cracked ice. Strain into cocktail glass. Twist and flame orange peel over top of the glass and drop into the drink. The orange oils will float on top providing pleasing aromatics. Shaking this cocktail may lead to excessive dilution. Drink cold.

Your host is in South America.

2010-04-03T14:14:00.000-07:00

Hello friends,

I apologize for the lack of recent posts. Your host is in the middle of a six week trip to Bolivia and Argentina, visiting the sights, and sampling the Singani brandy, wine, beer, and local beverages.

Look for new posts in early May!

Cheers,

LCBV

Takara Sake USA: Immerse yourself in the Japanese Rice Wine

2010-03-19T11:38:00.000-07:00

A recent dinner with sake at Betelnut got your host thinking about the beverage and the fact that there is a very good sake factory just across the Bay in Berkeley named Takara Sake USA. A subsidiary of the larger Japanese business, Takara Sake is located in a white industrial building near the railroad tracks and has been producing fine Junmai and Junmai Ginjo sakes from Sacramento Valley rice since 1982. Most know of the company through their flagship "Sho Chiku Bai" brand. Though sake is often known as rice wine in English, often due to its non-carbonated nature and bottle appearance, the manufacturing process is more like beer, in that the rice must first be converted from starch to sugar.

Current students and alums at Cal Berkeley may be well aware of Takara, as their tasting room has historically been popular with the college set. So much so, that the company now limits the quantity one can consume at each visit.

That being said, the visit is still a great way to get acquainted with the Japanese beverage. The museum and tasting room is on the second level of the factory, which allows one to peer down into the fermenting and manufacturing rooms. The potent smell of yeasty rice lingers in the air, a decidedly different aroma than one would find at a winery or brewery. There is a small museum detailing the process of making sake, along with a collection of antique sake making equipment. There is an airy Japanese styled tasting bar where you can choose one of several flights to try, depending on how dry or sweet you like your sake. Each flight costs $5 and allows you to try several products, ranging from milky white unfiltered Nigori sakes to super premium Junmai Dai-Ginjos. The tasting is an excellent chance to try more expensive sakes on the cheap, as a few of the flights contain sake from bottles in the $30 to $50 range. Unfortunately, the staff is strict about limited visitors to one flight (even if you offer to pay another $5), probably to discourage the rowdy group spectacle of years past.

However, there is no limit on how many bottles you can buy and take home and they offer their full range of USA and Japanese made products for sale at attractive prices, including organic and extra fine sakes. For those wanting a crash course in sake making, Takara's webpage offers a good overview of the manufacturing process and sake's differing characteristics, including how the different levels of rice polishing affect taste.

Before or after the visit, a good lunch option is Brennan's, located in the nearby historic mission-style 1913 Southern Pacific Railroad Depot under the University Avenue overpass. Known for its hand-carved sandwiches, Brennan's offers filling and reasonably priced pub fair in a classically detailed environment. Amtrak and freight trains still pass by out front.

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Important Information:

Takara Sake USA
708 Addison St.
(Between 3rd and 4th street)
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 540-8250
http://www.takarasake.com/
Mon-Sat 12 p.m. - 6 p.m.
Sun 11 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Brennan's Restaurant
700 University Ave.
(Between 3rd and 4th street)
Berkeley, CA 94710
(510) 841-0960
http://www.brennansberkeley.com/
Mon-Wed 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m.
Thu-Sat 11 a.m. - 10:30 p.m.
Bar stays open later.

A Little Fun Between the Sheets...

2010-03-07T22:08:00.000-08:00

Your host recently returned from a short trip to Honolulu and Waikiki. While Hawaii is more known for blended and umbrella style drinks, there are several bastions of cocktail refinement. One of these is the Lewer's Lounge at the Halekulani Hotel on Waikiki Beach.

According to their bartender, the lounge is the only establishment on Oahu to own its own Kold-Draft style ice machine, which makes special hard ice that melts more slowly. While Lewer's cocktail list is not inventive by SF or Seattle standards, they do make reliable classic drinks without the excessive use of sugary mixers. One drink that appears on the menu is the "Between the Sheets," a variation on the Sidecar, and a drink seldom seen today.

While its origin is unclear, the "Between the Sheets" cocktail actually has two variations, one with white rum, and one with Benedictine, a bitter french liqueur. It is the Benedictine version that is most complex, and the one they serve at Lewer's Lounge. For an extra kick, add a few dashes of Regan's Orange Bitters. The general bitterness matches well to the sweetness of the Cointreau and brandy.

Between the Sheets Cocktail

1.5 oz cognac or fine brandy
1/2 oz Benedictine
1/2 oz Cointreau
3/4 oz fresh lemon juice
Few dashes Regan's Orange Bitters #6.

Shake with good quality ice in cocktail shaker. Strain into cocktail glass and garnish with an orange twist.

A New Tequila Cocktail: The Sophisticated Gentleman

2010-02-18T14:22:00.000-08:00

Today's post will focus on a great, new tequila cocktail. Readers of this blog may recall that your host spoke favorably in January about Kirkland Brand Extra Anejo Tequila. Most extra anejo tequilas are not priced economically enough to use in everyday cocktails, much like you wouldn't use a nice Macallan for a Rob Roy cocktail. However, the Kirkland brand is a great one to experiment with due to its fair price. After tinkering, your host presents you with The Sophisticated Gentleman Cocktail.

Fans of the Manhattan or other darker, traditionally whiskey-based cocktails may find this new cocktail to their liking. It's also slightly sweeter to appeal to a broader audience. While there may be other cocktails with variations on these ingredients, your host has not seen an exact copy in print. Enjoy!

The Sophisticated Gentleman

2 oz Extra Anejo Tequila
1/2 oz Grand Marnier
1/2 oz Punt e Mes sweet vermouth (a great Italian sweet vermouth that sits between other sweet vermouths and Campari in flavor)
1/4 teaspoon of natural vanilla extract
Several dashes Angostura bitters
Flamed orange twist

In a cocktail glass or shaker, combine ingredients and stir with good quality ice. Strain and serve "up" in a cocktail glass. Flame an orange twist over the rim. As with most dark liquor based cocktails, it is best to stir instead of shake, in order to prevent excessive dilution and a watered-down taste. For fans of a more bitter drink, increase the Punt e Mes and Angostura bitters slightly. In fact, Punt e Mes is an ingredient that ties this cocktail together. Using another sweet vermouth may result in a overly sweet drink. Cocktail enthusiasts with a deep liquor cabinet can substitute Navan for the Grand Marnier and vanilla extract (Navan is a newer product by the Grand Marnier company with natural vanilla essence).

Rustic Charm at Donner Pass: Clair Tappaan Lodge

2010-02-04T17:59:00.000-08:00

Your host recently spent a night at the rustic Clair Tappaan lodge in Norden, CA, near the Sugar Bowl ski resort off old Highway 40 at Donner Pass. Owned and operated by the Sierra Club, the lodge is a great place for a no frills budget stay while downhill skiing or pursuing other winter activities.

Built in 1934 by Sierra Club volunteers, the lodge has a friendly and casual atmosphere and is located in an area with a typically deep snow pack (see photo). The lodge is named after a prominent Sierra Club volunteer and chapter chair from the early 1900's.

What makes the lodge particularly attractive is the reasonable price, about $60 per night (cheaper for Sierra Club members), which includes three full family-style meals. There is one male dorm and one female dorm, as well as several group dorms and private rooms for couples and families. Regardless of where you stay, bring your sleeping bag. Though the accommodations are bunk beds, the bathrooms and the male dorms have been recently renovated.

While the amenities are basic, there is a communal hot tub, well-stocked library, and large stone fireplace-appointed social hall with ample board games to provide amusement. Meals are served in the functional dining hall, which may bring back memories of Scout of summer camp.

The atmosphere at the lodge can affect the experience. By going mid-week, your host was fortunate enough to have the large 10 bed dorm room all to himself. In fact, there were only 10 guests at the lodge, including a father and son from Switzerland in the USA for an orienteering competition, a chatty man from Mendocino, and several elderly ladies enjoying the snow shoeing and cross country skiing. It's not typically a party place, and quiet hours start at 10 pm. However, weekends typically are much more crowded and booked out weeks in advance, and it is not uncommon for some of the larger group dorms to be occupied by Cub Scout or church groups. Expect to be conversational with your table-mates at dinner, many of whom will have an eco-political slant. Unless debate is your favorite game, choose your conversation carefully.

The food is decent enough. Our dinner included breaded chicken, mashed potatoes, salad, creamed corn, bread, and chocolate cake. A variety of hot drinks are available. Breakfast was french toast, fruit, and coffee. The cooks set out a rather generous buffet of breads, lunch meats, and cheeses, along with fruit, chips and cookies in order to pack our own lunches. Given the volunteer nature of the Sierra Club, every guest is asked to volunteer for a chore throughout their stay, such as helping prepare food, cleaning, or taking out the trash.

For those that are not skiing, the lodge rents snow-shoes and sleds, and there are several cross country and snow-shoe trails right out the back door.

The lodge is located up a short path from the old Donner Pass Road (Highway 40). Parking is available in a large lot across the highway. While plowed regularly, beware that the lot can be slippery for two-wheel drive sedans. It took your host 2 hours to free the car in the morning, after a wheel fell into an ice rut.

The lodge is staffed by friendly Sierra Club employees, who are able to answer questions. In addition to winter activities, the lodge is open throughout the year for those interested in hiking or checking out the old transcontinental railroad tunnels nearby.

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Clair Tappaan Lodge

19940 Donner Pass Road
Norden, CA 95724
530-426-3632
800-679-6775
fax: 530-426-0742
ctl@sierraclub.org
http://www.sierraclub.org/outings/lodges/ctl/contact.asp

Price: $59.92 per person per night (tax included). 10% discount for Sierra Club and Military Service members. Reservations are best made on their webpage.

Seelbach Cocktail: A Serious Drink for a Serious Palate

2010-01-16T21:41:00.000-08:00

The Seelbach Cocktail is likely unfamiliar to most people, which is a shame, since it's a great way to drink sparkling wine or champagne. It is also significantly different and more aggressive tasting than other champagne cocktails, such as the French 75.

The Seelbach was created at the stately Seelbach Hotel in Louisville, KY in 1917. Unfortunately, the recipe was misplaced during Prohibition, and was not uncovered until 1995, when a hotel manager came across the recipe.

The drink is unique for the generous use of bitters, both Angostura and Peychaud's, and as such, may not appeal to those who dislike some degree of bitterness.

While it will be unusual to see this cocktail on a list in San Francisco, most patient bartenders should be able to easily make one with a little guidance.

The Seelbach Cocktail:

1 oz bourbon (a 100 proof bourbon is a good choice)
1/2 oz Cointreau
7 dashes Angostura bitters
7 dashes Peychaud's bitters
5 oz of chilled brut sparkling wine or champagne (a higher quality sparkler will greatly enhance the drink)
Orange or lemon twist for garnish

Add all ingredients to champagne flute, stir gently, and garnish. For a sweeter drink, increase the Cointreau slightly.

For those that make it to KY, information about the hotel can be found here:
http://www.seelbachhilton.com/

Extra Anejo Tequila without the Extra Anejo Price

2010-01-14T13:43:00.000-08:00

Costco is often a great place to buy liquor, especially when stocking up for a party or looking for cocktail basics. While their premium liquor selection is often small, the prices are hard to beat. Recently, Costco has entered the realm of private label spirits under their Kirkland label, starting with a vodka made by the same company that produces Grey Goose. The next spirit in this line is an extra anejo tequila, which hit the shelves late last fall.

The extra anejo category is a new one for tequila, only existing as a classification since 2006. These tequilas have been aged for a minimum of 3 years in oak barrels, more than regular anejo tequila that must be aged for a minimum of 1 year. At 3 years, tequila loses most of its fresh agave flavor, and takes on a taste closer to bourbon. Some well known extra anejo tequilas include the Jose Cuervo Reserva de la Familia and Don Julio 1942. In addition to the aging requirement, most extra anejo tequilas have in common a premium price. The Reserva de la Familia and the 1942 both retail for $80 to $100 per bottle, a high price for a 3-year old spirit.

Enter Costco. Their recently released Extra Anejo tequila breaks this price barrier and retails for $23.99. It's aged for 3 years in American oak barrels in the town of Tequila, Jalisco, by the Fabrica de Tequilas Finos. This company also makes the upscale Tonala brand. While not as smooth as Reserva de la Familia or Tonala, the Kirkland brand does have nice oakey tones, good vanilla sweetness, and a peppery finish. Though it is drinkable straight, an ice cube or two will tame the slight burn. Overall, it is an excellent bargain at this price, and is cheap enough to use in a margarita or other tequila cocktail. It is also the same price as a decent bourbon, and might be a good way to introduce a bourbon drinker to aged tequila.

Your Brief Guide to Bay Area Cured Meats

2010-01-08T10:24:00.000-08:00

If you haven't noticed, the Bay Area culinary scene has become more adventurous over the past few years, especially in regard to meat.

A number of establishments have opened specializing in salumi and charcuterie, salumi being the Italian term for cured meats and meat products, often made from pork. In fact, San Francisco has long had a connection to Italian meats, ever since companies such as Molinari & Sons and Columbus Salame Co. were founded in the early 1900s. Those who are on the “whole hog” bandwagon have probably already known about these new places for some time, but several are worth highlighting.

Founded in late 2007, the Boccalone meat factory in Oakland makes some pretty tasty products under the slogan “Tasty Salted Pig Parts”. Owner Chris Consentino, executive chef at Incanto in Noe Valley, makes a range of products including salami, mortadella, pate, and an addictive soft salami called Nduja. Some of their products, such as the spreadable lard, may not appeal to most, but the Nduja is something unique and different. Native to the Calabria area of Italy, Nduja is a spicy, citrusy, and extremely flavorful spreadable salame. Boccalone is the only U.S. producer making the product, and it is next to impossible to find fresh Nduja imported from Italy. It has a pungent, over the top, meaty flavor and is made from ingredients including pork, salt, citrus pulp, spices and red pepper.

Those who are a fan of strong tasting foods and drinks such as English Stilton, Spanish Queso de Cabrales blue cheese, pickled herring, Double IPAs or Islay Scotch whisky will likely appreciate the flavor and complexity. The sausage comes in a natural pig casing, and is great to spread on toasted bread or crackers. Mixing an ounce or so with scrambled eggs and extra sharp white cheddar makes a particularly pungent and flavorful breakfast dish.

The best place to purchase Nduja is at the Boccalone store in San Francisco, located in the Ferry Building market place. At $11 per chub, it's not cheap, but well worth the money. In addition to Nduja, you can buy their other products and an assortment of sandwiches. Create a lasting impression on a date by buying a “Meat Cone” to share, which consists of a paper cone full of various meat delicacies. For those not in San Francisco, Boccalone sells some of their meat products on its web page. A package of two Nduja chubs is $24, plus shipping. Fans of Boccalone's products will also enjoy charcuterie products from the Fatted Calf, which is based at Napa's Oxbow market, but also has a stall at the Saturday Ferry Building farmer's market.

Another new company is 4505 meats, who have created their own version of chicharones (aka pork rinds). 4505's version has a super light texture and mouth feel, similar to a Japanese shrimp cracker. Chef Ryan Farr created the product, and they are fried in rice bran oil. It's fully priced at $3 per 1/2 oz package, but might appeal to those normally not a fan of puffed pork skin of the super market variety, or the typically greasy, heavier type common in many Latin American butcher shops. For a little fun at your next party, supply a bowl of 4505 meats' chicharones, and once they've been eaten, inform everyone that they weren't eating rice crackers. 4505 Meats operates their own booth at the Thursday Ferry Building farmer's market, but also distributes through other fine purveyors.

Across the Bay in Oakland is Adesso, a restaurant/bar devoted to its own house made line of salume. Go during happy hour when they put out a free buffet of small dishes, some of which include their salumi. Your host is not typically a head cheese fan, but Adesso's version is undeniably savory.

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Places Mentioned:

Boccalone
1 Ferry Building
San Francisco, CA 94111
(415) 433-6500
www.boccalone.com

Fatted Calf Charcuterie
Oxbow Public Market
644 C 1st Street
Napa, CA 94559
(707) 256-3684
www.fattedcalf.com

4505 Meats
1 Ferry Building
San Francisco, CA 94111
(Thursday market only)
www.4505meats.com

Adesso
4935 Piedmont Ave.
Oakland, CA 94611
(510) 601-0305
Happy Hour: 5-7 pm Monday through Saturday, and the last hour of business every day
No webpage

Moskovskaya Vodka: A Bargain from Russia

2009-12-14T20:44:00.000-08:00

There is a lot of foreign vodka available in the U.S. and no spirit category has more competition. As your host has mentioned previously, the method of vodka production can heavily influence the flavor. Recently, your host recommended Dry Fly Vodka out of Spokane, WA. In that case, the uniqueness of the product, full bodied flavor, and craft production process merited the $30-$35 price tag. On the opposite end of the flavor profile lies the drier, Russian/East European style. With these vodkas, a higher price may more likely represent brand prestige than an indication of outright quality.

Your host recently came across a Russian vodka that for the price, knocks the socks off of most vodkas 3 to 4 times as expensive. The brand is Moskovskaya vodka, and is available at your local Trader Joe's at the bargain price of $8.99 for a 750 ml bottle (for those fortunate to live in non-control states).

Enthusiasts of Russian vodka may recognize that the green label design and bottle bear a striking resemblance to the red labeled Stolichnaya vodka. In fact, both brands are manufactured by the same company, SPI Group, a major Russian conglomerate. Originally formulated in 1894, Moskovskaya vodka was re-introduced under the Soviets in 1925. It has a different flavor from Stoli, with a slightly spicier finish. It shares Stoli's smooth mouth feel and pleasing smell, at less than half the cost. The mash bill reportedly contains rye malt, and the distillers add small amounts of baking soda and acetic acid to the final product as flavor enhancers.

It's easy to strike out in this price range for vodka, as most options tend to have a nasty alcohol burn and medicinal smell...fine for mixing and masking with juice, but not suitable for a martini. Moskovskaya is a winner, let's hope the price stays low.

River City USA...Surprising Sacramento

2009-12-10T10:03:00.000-08:00

Unless it's for business, family, or a pit stop while traveling to or from Tahoe, many Bay Area residents probably would not consider a trip to Sacramento. While it's true the city can't compare to the sights and sounds of San Francisco, it does offer some experiences that make a pleasant weekend trip...especially for those interested in a classic mid western style river city experience in California.

Sacramento also has one of the largest concentrations of late 19th century architecture in California, with its historic Old Town and its Mid-town collection of late Victorian homes. Below are several LCBV favorites in Sacramento.

Old Town Sacramento:

While touristy, the architecture in this district is unique with a number of Gold Rush and Victorian era commercial buildings. The whole area owes its preservation due to it being a slum for a good part of the 20th century until its re-development. There is also the tree lined Sacramento riverfront promenade, with views of the 1935 historic yellow vertical lift Tower Bridge. A must visit is the California State Railroad Museum, which has one of the nation's largest collections of restored and preserved steam locomotives including the Genoa and Sonoma, both classic Western style Baldwin engines. In addition, a seasonal steam train runs along the riverfront during the summer and on certain weekends.

On the waterfront is the Delta King, an original Sacramento Riverboat. While in service during the first half of the 20th century, it would carry passengers on overnight trips between San Francisco and Sacramento. Now a hotel, it provides unique accommodation with a river view. Ask for a room with a view facing the river, preferably a corner room. The decor has a nautical theme, and the rooms are very cozy, though larger than they originally were when it was in service. The boat also has a decent restaurant and bar, with a nice Sunday brunch buffet. For those into theater, the on board venue provides live entertainment on certain nights. During the summer and fall, the roof promenade is a good place to watch the fireworks show over the river after a minor league baseball River Cats game (the local team).

Make sure to grab a bite to eat at the Rio City Cafe, a classy riverfront venue with outdoor deck and historical decor. While the food is reliable, you also typically escape the Summer weekend tourist hoards who are congregated outside the nearby Joe's Crab Shack.

Alphabet District/Midtown:

Over the past 10 years, this district has started to attract a more cosmopolitan vibe. For those familiar with Portland, OR, the district is somewhat reminiscent of the NW 21st/23rd shopping and restaurant areas, as large Victorian and early 20th century houses are interspersed with shops. Many of the worthwhile spots are located along or nearby Capitol Ave, to the East of the State Capitol park. Both Rubicon Brewing, a pioneer in the craft brewing scene, and Zocalo, an upscale Mexican restaurant in an historic auto dealership are located here. The nearby Old Soul Co. coffee shop and bakery is also worth a visit. Worth a small detour is the old white California Governor's Mansion a few blocks to the North. Built in 1877, it's a rare example of a large Second Empire-Italianate Victorian. Now a museum, Ronald Reagan was the last governor to live inside.

Downtown:

The K Street Pedestrian promenade anchors the downtown area of Sacramento and has a number of outdoor cafes and shops. The intersection of 11th and K Street is particularly leafy during the summer and is a pleasant spot for lunch. The circa 1887 Cathedral of the Blessed Sacramento and the 1940's era Crest Theater are nearby.

A block to the South is the State Capitol, constructed between 1861 and 1874. The building's dome, at 220 ft, was designed to equal the height of the U.S. Capital in Washington, D.C. It's worth the time to enter and see the interior of the House and Senate Chambers as well as the interior dome decoration Of note, the interior of the dome is painted with shades of pink, which was considered a very masculine color in the late 19th century.

A block to the North of K Street on J Street lies the City Hall plaza and the Citizen Hotel. Along with the Delta King, the recently opened Citizen Hotel is one of the more unique places to stay. Originally constructed in 1925 for the California Western Life Insurance Company, the building is classically designed with marble and a mansard roof. Prior to the hotel conversion, the building was unofficially known as the "Poverty Palace" due to it holding the offices of numerous social service and charity groups. The developers did an excellent job preserving historical elements including the original lobby with its carvings and brass elevator doors. While cozy, the rooms are well appointed and are decorated with political cartoons. The on-site restaurant, The Grange, is a good spot for a cocktail or breakfast. The balcony lobby bar "Scandal" has a dark library feel. In fact, the designers did a good job preserving the historic original marble lobby while adding another, darker lobby behind where you actually check in. The hotel occasional runs a $99 per night promo, so it's best to call ahead to see about that rate. Normal rates start around $139, which is still very reasonable.

During the summer, the plaza across the street often hosts a farmer's market. Around the corner is Bud's Buffet. Not a true buffet, but a sandwich shop/deli that is very popular with the government crowd. While the immediate area is improving, the area gets pretty empty at night save for the corner liquor store/pawnshop crowd. Down the street from the Citizen is the old Elks Building, another grand old high rise. It's currently the home of a McCormick & Schmick's Seafood restaurant on the ground floor.

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Selected Listings:

Citizen Hotel
926 J St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 447-2700
www.thecitizenhotel.com

Delta King
1000 Front St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 441-4440
www.deltaking.com

Rubicon Brewing
2004 Capitol Ave
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 448-7032
www.rubiconbrewing.com

Rio City Cafe
1110 Front St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 442-8226
www.riocitycafe.com

Old Soul Co.
1716 L St
Rear Alley
Sacramento, CA 95811
(916) 443-7685
www.oldsoulco.com

Bud's Buffet
1016 10th St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 443-6905

California State Railroad Museum
111 I St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 322-8485
www.csrmf.org/default.asp

Governor's Mansion Historic Park
1526 H Street
Sacramento, CA 95814
www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=498

Vodka without the burn...

2009-11-17T14:35:00.000-08:00

Your host recently had the chance to visit Spokane's Dry Fly Distilling. Dry Fly Distilling is a relatively new company, and has recently started to ship its gin and vodka to Northern California. Founded in 2007, Dry Fly was Washington State's first licensed micro-distiller. It's located in an unassuming strip mall next to the Norther Lights Brewery on the outskirts of downtown Spokane. Until 2007, it was very difficult to distill in Washington, and the current owners of Dry Fly lobbied the state to create a certain legal category that would allow a small distiller to prosper. One of the stipulations of the law is that 51% of the ingredients must be from Washington State.

Why is this exciting news? It's exciting since this law, designed to help Washington farmers, also causes the distiller to make their alcohol from scratch. Too many new distillers buy industrial grain alcohol (GNS) from Midwest conglomerates such as Archer Daniels and Cargill. They re-distill it, filter it through charcoal, dilute it with "artisan" water, and then slap a fancy label on the bottle and normally a premium price. Unfortunately for the consumer, it's very difficult by look to determine if their vodka or gin is GNS based, or made from scratch. However, if it is GNS based, the marketing material will likely discuss the special filtration process and the use of such items as crystals, lava rock, special charcoal, or diamonds in the filtering. Some bottlings, but not all, will also say 100% grain neutral spirits on the label.

If the alcohol is made from scratch, the distillery either ferments their own grain or uses a local brewery to provide them with wort. The result is usually a more flavorful product with less burn. Well made vodkas made from scratch will have a pleasing, sometimes sweet smell with no trace of rubbing alcohol. It's possible to make a good GNS based vodka, but it will usually have no smell at all and little special taste. It is considerably more expensive and difficult to produce alcohol from grain than it is to buy GNS. Almost every large vodka producer uses GNS, or mixes GNS with a smaller amount of house made spirit to provide flavor.

Dry Fly's vodka, made from Washington wheat, has a creamy, somewhat sweet taste. It is excellent on the rocks with a dash of orange bitters or in a Martini. It's also a vodka that's easy to drink at room temperature, and actually smells nice. Use a cheap vodka for the cranberry or lemon mixer.

Dry Fly's gin is also made with the same vodka base, but is flavored with numerous classic and unique botanicals such as Washington green apple. The flavor is mellow and soft, and while excellent, this gin may not appeal to fans of the more assertive London Dry Style. Use it in a martini or with a squeeze of lime. Save the London Dry for the gin and tonic.

If you're in Washington, both the vodka and gin can be purchased at state liquor stores for around $30. In California, the price tends to be around $35+tax. Both K&L and Beltramos typically carry the vodka and gin. While the vodka is pricey compared to other brands, it's worth the money, and you are not paying for a fancy advertising campaign.

Dry Fly also makes a wheat whiskey, though the initial batch ran out shortly after it was released this fall. Aged two years in bourbon barrels, initial reviews indicated that the next batch is worth seeking out when it's available, which the distillery says might be December 4th.

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Dry Fly Distilling
1003 E. Trent #200
Spokane, WA 99202
509-489-2112
www.dryflydistilling.com

Unique Sonoma County - LCBV Favorites

2009-11-09T10:48:00.000-08:00

Your host recently returned from a short day trip to our Sonoma neighbors to the North. It seems that when most people visit Sonoma County for fun, it's one of 3 places. Sonoma Valley (with Downtown Sonoma), Healdsburg/Dry Creek for wine tasting, and Russian River water activities. While these are all great destinations, there are several interesting spots that many people miss. Below are some favorites.

Downtown Petaluma:

Petaluma has one of the more attractive and historic commercial districts of any Bay Area City. Founded in 1858 along the Petaluma River, downtown Petaluma has more remaining commercial Victorian buildings than perhaps any other city around. It's notable for its row of cast iron fronted commercial buildings that survived both the 1906 Earthquake and the 20th century modernization projects that removed many older structures from other small cities. Visit the corner of Petaluma Blvd. and Western Avenue for the best collection of structures. A stroll down neighboring Water Street along an historic trestle gives a good view of what was once a bustling port. Across the river in the old Northwestern Pacific train depot is a helpful tourist office with guides and maps.

Beef Jerky:

The surrounding countryside is home to several old butcher shops offering some mighty fine American style beef jerky and other smoked meat products. One of which is Angelo's Meats out near the Petaluma Airport. The other is Bud's Custom Meats, a few miles to the North in Penngrove. While expensive, the jerky at Angelo's is moist and rich, and a far cry from most factory produced jerkies. If possible, ask if they have a fresh batch that has not yet gone into plastic. The teriyaki is a good flavor. In addition to Jerky, Angelo's offers house made sausages and other smoked steaks.

Bud's Custom Meats is known for their Bloody Mary beef jerky. It's essentially jerky that is cured in a tomato pepper sauce and is unique. It's slightly cheaper than Angelo's and a little harder to find. Both of these shops will custom smoke your own meat as well.

The enclave of Penngrove has a small, but charming downtown next to the railroad tracks. Before the construction of Hwy 101, Penngrove was on the main street connecting Petaluma with Cotati (Old Redwood Highway). There are several small restaurants and shops worth a visit. The downtown is located at the intersection of Main and Old Adobe Road.

Artisan Cheese:

Sonoma County is home to several well known cheese companies including Vella, Sonoma Jack, and Spring Hill Cheese. One cheese company, the Matos Cheese Company, is well off the beaten path between Cotati and Sebastopol and worth a visit. The company makes only one type of cheese, a white Portuguese cow's milk cheese called St. George from the on-site dairy's own cows. The cheese has a nutty flavor, and is great by itself or in dishes. It tastes sort of like a firmer Havarti. The company is owned by 5th generation cheese maker Jose Matos and his wife Mary, formerly from the Portuguese Azores Islands. The dairy has a small shop at the end of a dirt road. Behind the retail counter is the aging room filled with rounds of cheese. While the chase is available at several specialty retailers at a good markup, the cost is $7 per lb at the factory shop. You can buy the cheese by the pound.

Apples and Apple Cider:

The nearby town of Sebastopol is known for its Gravenstein Apples, a variety introduced by Russian traders in the 1800's at their outpost in Fort Ross. While apple farming has somewhat succumbed to urban sprawl and wine grapes, there are still a few farms that sell direct to the customer. One of which is Hales Apple Farm right on the main Hwy 116 north of downtown. The retail stand is in an old red barn. While Gravenstein apples ripen in late July through August, a number of hard to find late harvest varietals such as Arkansas Black are available through November. They also offer fresh pressed non-alcoholic cider. The farm stand is only open during harvest season.

A few miles north in the town of Graton is the California Cider Company, which manufactures the Ace Hard Cider line from fresh apple juice. They operate a great pub called Ace in the Hole, where you can sample their offerings including regular, pear "Perry", berry, honey, and the Joker. The Joker is a stronger European style cider with a champaign like quality. The food menu is reasonably priced.

In addition, down the street in Graton's quaint small downtown is the Willow Wood Market, a great spot for specialty sandwiches and regional cuisine.

Breweries:

Sonoma County is home to a number of breweries, including Russian River, Bear Republic, Lagunitas and Stumptown Brewing. Russian River Brewing, arguably one of the Bay Area's only world class craft breweries, pushes the limit in many of its beers. It's most known for its hoppy ales and Belgian inspired beers. You'd be hard pressed to find a better IPA than Pliny the Elder or Blind Pig. In addition, Vinnie Cilurzo, owner and head brewer, has been on the forefront of the American development of barrel aged sour beers. His sour blond Temptation Ale, aged in Chardonnay barrels, is a highlight, along with Consecration Ale, a dark ale aged in Cabernet barrels with currants.

The special sauce is the use of brettanomyces, a special yeast strain that gives the beers its unique sour character. Russian River operates a tap room and pizza parlor in downtown Santa Rosa, a perfect stop on the way back from the Healdsburg Area, especially during the 4 to 6:30 pm daily happy hour (or all day Sunday). For those not wanting to drive to Santa Rosa, various products are now bottled for local stores and many items are on tap at Toronado bar on Haight Street in San Francisco.

Bear Republic Brewing may be more well known to the casual beer drinker due to their Racer 5 IPA, on tap at many San Francisco bars. Bear Republic operates a restaurant and brewery a block off the main square in Healdsburg. If you like Racer 5, make sure to try Hop Rod Rye, a hoppy rye ale.

Lagunitas is the oldest active brewery in Sonoma County, and a reliable choice. Their IPA helped start the West Coast style. While tame in bitterness compared to some newer offerings (i.e. Racer 5 and Blind Pig), their IPA may be a better choice for someone less familiar with hops. For the real Hop Heads, they produce their Hop Stoopid beer, with over 100 IBU's. The company recently opened a tap room "Beer Sanctuary" at their brewery near Petaluma, where they have a number of offerings on tap and provide pub food and live music on many nights.

Fans of San Francisco's Zeitgeist should definitely check out Stumptown Brewing in Guerneville (Stumptown was Guerneville's original name due to the heavy logging.) It may look familiar since both venues have the same owners. Stumptown is the smallest brewery, and features a couple of house brewed beers along with other craft and macro offerings. The back deck overlooking the Russian River is one of the more attractive places to enjoy a brew.

Until recently, Stumptown was also unique since they were a partner to Fossil Brewing. Fossil Brewing is a new company dedicated to making beers from prehistoric yeast. Apparently, the microbiologist founders decided to brew beer with a strain they discovered and found it made wonderful esterly ales. Before going into production, they decided to tweak the recipe at a few breweries including Stumptown. The result is the XP pale ale, which could be described as a cross between a California Pale and a Belgian Blond. However, it seems that Fossil is now going to manufacture the beer itself, so the current batch on tap at Stumptown may be the last for a while.

Miscellaneous Sights:

If you have traveled all the way to Guerneville, there are a few other spots of note within a short drive that are worth a visit. One stop is the Korbel Champagne Cellars. Founded in the 1860's, Korbel is one of the oldest surviving producers of American Champagne. Their historic winery and gardens are arguably one of the more scenic spots in the area (their modern factory is located back in the canyon, away from the historic area). In addition, the vineyards in this area are a nice contrast to the surrounding Redwood trees.

They offer free tours and tastings most afternoons. The tours take you into the old cellars and discuss the process of making California Champagne. History buffs may enjoy the historic brandy tower and the original Northwestern Pacific train depot on sight, as well as stories about how redwood stumps on the property were blown up with dynamite while filming the Combat TV show. The tour ends with a complimentary tasting of 4 to 5 different products. If your familiarity with Korbel stops with their "Brut," this tour is a chance to try several other products including a nice dry red Champagne, and the Natural Style, which is served at the White House. For those who remain thirsty, step into the retail shop where you can taste an additional 4 or 5 at no cost. The retail shop has bottlings not available in stores, and the prices are refreshingly reasonable compared to surrounding wineries.

Nearby and North of the town of Guerneville is the Armstrong Redwoods State Nature Reserve. It's the only sizable grove of old growth Redwood in Sonoma County and has a few major trees including the Armstrong Tree and and Parson Jones Tree. The reserve is named after Colonel Armstrong, a lumberman who chose to preserve the park in the 1870's.

The park is also a perennial favorite of Arnold Schwarzenegger to include on the potential state park closure list. For now it's open and worth a visit. Park in the lot outside of the gate to avoid the $8 admission fee, until you wish to drive to the picnic area at the other end of the park. Most of the large trees are within 3/4 mile of the entrance parking lot.

Back along the river to the West is the small vacation hamlet of Monte Rio. Located here is the historic Highland Dell Lodge, built in 1906. It now operates as a Bed & Breakfast and German Restaurant. The back deck is an excellent place to enjoy a drink or lunch in the Summer months with views of the river and redwoods. In the winter, the restaurant is open for dinner and serves hearty German fair such as Sauerbraten and Schwabentopf.

One last place to reference is the town of Occidental. A former lumber town and narrow gauge railroad stop, it's notable for both its scenic redwood grove location, and for its famous Italian Restaurants: The Union Hotel and Negri's, the former being in business since 1925 in a building dating to 1879. Head South from Monte Rio and the Russian River and you will run right into downtown Occidental, which has has a number of remaining historic structures.

Happy travels.

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Select Places Mentioned:

Contact each place for hours, as they may change.

Angelo's Meats

2700 Old Adobe Rd
Petaluma, CA 94952
(707) 763-9586
http://angelossmokehouse.com/

Bud's Custom Meats

7750 Petaluma Hill Rd
Penngrove, CA 94951
(707) 795-8402

Matos Cheese Company

3669 Llano Rd
Santa Rosa, CA 95407
(707) 823-4454

Hales Apple Farm
1526 Gravenstein Hwy North
Sebastopol, CA 95472
707.823.4613

Ace in the Hole Pub
3100 Gravenstein Hwy N
Sebastopol, CA 95472
(707) 829-1223
www.acecider.com/

Willow Wood Market
9020 Graton Rd
Graton, CA 95444
(707) 823-0233
www.willowwoodgraton.com

Russian River Brewing
725 4th St
Santa Rosa, CA 95404
(707) 545-2337
www.russianriverbrewing.com

Bear Republic Brewing
345 Healdsburg Ave
Healdsburg, CA 95448
(707) 433-2337
www.bearrepublic.com

Lagunitas Brewing and Beer Sanctuary
1280 N McDowell Blvd
Petaluma, CA 94954
(707) 769-4495
www.lagunitas.com

Stumptown Brewing
15045 River Rd
Guerneville, CA 95446
(707) 869-0705
www.stumptown.com

Korbel Champagne Cellars
13250 River Rd
Guerneville, CA 95446
(707) 824-7000
www.korbel.com

Armstrong Redwoods SNR
17000 Armstrong Woods Rd
Guerneville, CA 95446
(707) 869-2015
www.parks.ca.gov

Highland Dell
21050 River Blvd
Monte Rio, CA 95462
(707) 865-2300
www.highlanddell.com

Union Hotel Pizza and Pasta Co.
3731 Main St
Occidental, CA 95465
(707) 874-3444
www.unionhotel.com

Sidecar Shenanigans in Vancouver...

2009-10-26T09:48:00.000-07:00

Your host recently returned from a great weekend in Vancouver, British Columbia. It's definitely a city worth visiting. It's clean, beautiful, and the public transit is robust. The local beer rivals beer from Seattle, Portland, or SF, and the restaurant scene is diverse with many Asian influences. For us San Francisco residents, Vancouver's West End and Yaletown have provided a good deal of inspiration for SF's South of Market redevelopment with all the new tall residential towers. Vancouver got on this bandwagon 30+ years ago. While Vancouver is on the cutting edge of many things, it's severely lacking in one area...cocktails.

Think big, sweet, icy, and very 1980's. It's as if Vancouver cocktails are harking back to their 1986 World Expo, instead of looking forward to the 2010 Winter Olympics. Your host had the chance to peruse several cocktail lists during the short trip. Of the drinks ordered, most memorable was a uniquely Canadian Sidecar.Your host has never had a Sidecar like this one. And yes, the picture above is of said Sidecar. Granted, a Sidecar was not on the menu, but given that the establishment was fancy (it seemed to be Vancouver's equivalent to the Top of the Mark or Starlight Room in San Francisco), and our server assured us that they had a "very experienced" bartender, it didn't seem like a big request. After all, a Sidecar in its simplest form is cognac/brandy, Cointreau, and lemon juice, served up in a cocktail glass. How difficult is that? Apparently very.

Our friendly, but clueless server should have been a warning sign, as he had never heard of a Sidecar before, but again referenced their "very experienced" bartender. As one familiar with Sidecars might imagine, the above result was somewhat shocking. If the bartender was experienced, it must have been at Trader Vic's or some other Temple of Tikidom. With a broad smile, our server exclaimed, "This sidecar drink looks delicious! Brandy, triple sec, and lime sweet and sour mix. Is this what you wanted?" Short of the brandy being pisco, it was hard to fathom exactly what brandy was used in the drink (or if it was actually brandy at all) based on the color. In a situation as comical as this, it seemed best to politely smile and express how interesting it is to try new preparations. Next time it will probably be better to stick with a beer.

This story aside, there likely are plenty of spots in Vancouver that can made a good sidecar and other classic cocktails. Just be careful of what you order, and stick to something on the menu.

Good Value Spirits: Buyer's Guide

2009-10-21T10:27:00.000-07:00

Your host has returned! After a two month break traveling around the country, your host is back to entertain and amuse.

Recently, your host has been on the lookout for value priced spirits. Below is a list of spirits that are either under priced, or good value for the money. Typically, these spirits are able to price well due to their obscurity, newness, or the economy of scale of the producer. Most lack the prestige factor that high end single malts or certain luxury vodkas possess.

Korbel VSOP California brandy ($11.99 at BevMo): This is definitely one of the better mass market California brandies. The VSOP is aged in used Jack Daniels barrels, which gives a smokier flavor to the spirit. The spirit is smooth, and not overly sweet like many other U.S. brandies. Try it in a sidecar.

Boomsma Oude Dutch Genever ($15.99 at Beltramos): The Dutch style of gin, genever (or Holland gin), is gaining popularity in the U.S. Genever is a precursor to the more popular London dry style and is usually a heavier and sweeter spirit. While they both use juniper as a flavoring agent, genever tends to be more oily and maltier. A good comparison is that the London dry style is flavored vodka, while Dutch genever is favored whiskey. Aged in oak for over a year, Boomsma Oude has a scotch like quality, and is excellent on the rocks with a dash of bitters. At less than half the price of Bols (a leading brand), it's a good bargain.

Johnnie Walker Black Label (~$23 at major retailers): The conglomerate Diageo works its magic with this brand. Due to its immense scale, Diageo is able to keep the price of this smoky malt to a relative bargain when compared with other scotch whiskies Slightly smokey and slightly sweet, Black Label is a good standby.

Ron Zacapa 23 Solera ($39.99 at Beltramos): This rum from Guatemala is unique. A blend of rums aged between 6 and 23 years old, the spirit is aged in a variety of casks including bourbon, sherry, and Pedro Ximenez wine casks and manufactured in the solera process. While the price has risen from the $20's in the past few years, it's still a good value when compared against similar spirits, such as comparable cognacs and whiskies. The taste is sweet and rich, perfect in a brandy snifter.

Rain Vodka ($14.99 at Beltramos): This vodka is made from sweet white corn and manufactured by the Buffalo Trace company (makers of several bourbons including their namesake brand). This corn based vodka is sweeter than many, with a more pronounced creaminess. Unlike many vodkas, the company makes their vodka from scratch. Many modern US vodkas buy grain neutral spirits from industrial distillers and then charcoal filter and dilute with artisan water.

Ridgemont '1792' Reserve Bourbon ($24.99 at Beltramos): This relatively new bourbon is the premium offering from Barton Brands, now owned by the Sazerac company). At 8 years old, it has a nice richness. This would be a good option for people used to Maker's Mark and Woodford Reserve. The bottle is also upscale looking.

Forty Creek Barrel Select Canadian Whiskey ($21.99 at BevMo): This whiskey, produced at the Kittling Ridge distillery in Grimsby, Ontario, is an excellent whiskey in the lighter Canadian style. It's unique in that they age the whiskey in house made sherry wine barrels, and make 3 distinct component whiskies from corn, rye, and barley before blending them together for the finished product. The price is also reasonable, and has not increased like many other independent distillers have done over the past few years.

Rittenhouse Rye 100 proof ($17.99 at Beltramos): This is one of the best values in rye whiskey. Spicier than bourbon, rye makes an excellent Manhattan and is a requirement for the Sazerac cocktail. The 100 proof version is much better than the 80 proof version, which tastes watered down.

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Both Beltramos and Bevmo offer online sales. Beltramos, located in Menlo Park, tends to have some of the best prices, but the inventory can be limited. BevMo has multiple locations.

www.bevmo.com
www.beltramos.com

Distillery Directory and Stay Tuned....

2009-08-27T09:14:00.001-07:00

Hello readers. Your host recently returned from a coastal trip along the U.S. 101 from Seattle to San Francisco. In the next few weeks, look to see a full overview with highlights, in case you are planning your own Pacific Coast trip.

In the meantime, here is another liquor related post. If you share an interest in American craft distilling (or their products), check out the American Distilling Institute webpage. They cover a variety of topics concerning domestic spirits, and operate as an advocate for the industry.

Their 2009 directory, linked below, is a good place to start. The directory lists almost every craft distiller in the U.S., and also contains some interesting articles concerning domestic brandy and eue de vie. If you're planning a trip, it's a great resource to check to see if there might be any liquor tasting rooms near your destination.

http://www.distilling.com/PDF/09directory.pdf

Bill Owens (President)
American Distilling Institute
Box 557
Hayward, CA
510-886-7418
www.distilling.com

Monopolowa Gin: Value Gin Made From Potatoes

2009-08-05T17:28:00.000-07:00

Gin is one of those spirits where quality is very important, as unlike vodka, you can rarely cover the taste of bad/harsh gin with juice or other mixers. While there is good reason to be suspect of a $10 gin, one can be surprised, such as in the case of Monopolowa Gin.

Monopolowa gin is made by the J.A. Baczewski Company, a former polish distiller now located in Vienna, Austria. Unlike most gins, Monopolowa Gin is distilled from potatoes, rather than grain (J.A. Baczewski also makes an excellent potato vodka). They use standard London Dry botanicals such as juniper berries, orange and lemon peels, coriander, anise, and fennel, but the overall product is much less assertive than traditional London Dry gin and closer in taste to Plymouth Gin (known for its softer flavor). It has a creamy mouth feel and balanced flavor profile. This gin mixes particularly well with bitter liqueurs such as Campari and Chartreuse, as the piny juniper flavor doesn't dominate. Try it in a Negroni or Martini. However, those accustomed to the taste of strong English gins like Beefeater may find it a little weak tasting for a Gin & Tonic.

Costing $9.99 at the local Trader Joe's for 1L, this gin is an excellent value.

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Monopolowa Gin
J.A. Baczewski Company
http://www.agjab.com/monopolowa_2008/frame.htm

The Perfect Negroni

1 oz Gin
1 oz Bitter Sweet Vermouth (Try Punt e Mes)
1 oz Campari

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a lemon twist. The Negroni is traditionally an aperitif, designed to stimulate the appetite. If you must use a cheaper, less bitter, sweet vermouth like Martini & Rossi or Ponti, add a few dashes of Angostura Bitters to the mix.

Cocktails on the Small Screen

2009-07-29T11:14:00.000-07:00

There are dozens of blogs and media outlets that concern the art of the cocktail. Some of these are featured on the links section of this page. Most of these blogs are run by bartenders, amateur cocktalians, or owned by various liquor companies. However, a few business start-ups have entered the space, including the Small Screen Network (SSN).

The SSN specializes in "niche casting," consisting of short sub-10 minute programs targeted at the cocktail/beverage enthusiast. Their first show, "The Cocktail Spirit," is hosted by Robert Hess, cocktail expert and co-founder of the Museum of the American Cocktail. When not discussing cocktails, Mr. Hess interestingly hangs his hat at Microsoft as a Technology Evangelist. His short videos are a great way to learn how to mix quality cocktails quickly and properly, ranging from well known drinks like the Cosmopolitan to lesser known libations like The Last Word.

Other shows include "Raising the Bar," hosted by Bartender Jamie Boudreau, "Three Sheets," with comedian Zane Lamprey, and "The Liquid Muse" with mixologist Natalie Bovis-Nelsen.

In addition to the videos, the SSN also operates several entertaining blogs. For those of you with money to play with, they're looking for angel investors according to the webpage.

Follow the below link:

http://www.smallscreennetwork.com

Black Pudding and Beer: Gastropubs Move West

2009-07-21T15:43:00.000-07:00

Those that live in or frequent San Francisco's Marina District probably have noticed the line that forms outside the new gastropub, The Tipsy Pig, on weekend nights. Conceived by the Vintage 415 gang (Umami, Mamacitas, The Ambassador, et. al), the restaurant is well run and popular. While the food is decent pub food and the beer list thoughtful, the culinary offerings are tame by gastropub standards. For example, there's nothing obscure enough on the menu to make the average Marina denizen squeal. The pork sliders are one of the better menu options.

The Tipsy Pig is just one of several gastropubs to open in the Bay Area over the past few years, as part of a current broader movement. The term was originally coined in 1991 by David Eyre and Mike Belben who operated the Eagle Pub in Clerkenwell, London. A combination of "gastronomy" and "pub", their "gastropub" establishment was an attempt to combine quality dining in a pub environment, thus elevating British dining and pub culture. The movement jumped to New York City in late 2003 with the opening of The Spotted Pig. The general scene has exploded since then, helped by the current economic times as gastropub menus typically feature more reasonable prices and comforting food such as upscale hamburgers and mac and cheese (as well as more obscure Scottish and English specialties like blood pudding).

The Bay Area's gastropubs could be broken into two groups. The former includes classic pubs that have upgraded their culinary offerings, while the latter includes new arrivals such as the aforementioned Tipsy Pig. Good examples of the first group include classic pubs like Liverpool Lil's and The Pig & Whistle, founded in 1973 and 1991 respectively. The latter group is diverse with more traditional establishments with beer centric menus/pub decor like Monk's Kettle, Magnolia Pub, Martin's West, and Tipsy Pig, to ones that have more of a focus on lighter, more California influenced fare and decoration such as The Alembic, Urban Tavern, and the Grand Tavern in Oakland. In addition, one could argue that with the West Coast's focus on fresh and exciting food, many of our local microbrewery restaurants were essentially "gastropubs" before the name became trendy.

Your host recently had the opportunity to visit Martins West, a new gastropub that opened in May in the historic area of Redwood City. The founders include the husband and wife team of Moira Beveridge and Derek Smith, both active in the local restaurant and bar scene, as well as Michael Dotson, former Executive Chef at Evvia in Palo Alto. It's named after the Martins Restaurant in Edinburgh, Scotland, run by Martin Irons, a family friend of Ms. Beveridge.

Located in the old Alhambra Theater building constructed in 1896, the restaurant incorporates some of the original design elements of the building including a line of solid wood columns that extend down the middle of the room. Also notice the scorch marks on the back exposed brick walls, resulting from a fire in years past. The proprietors went through great lengths to use recycled materials during construction. The bar is made from an older wooden water tank, and many of the tables are made from old wine barrels.

The menu is adventurous with Scottish items such as black pudding (cow's blood mixed with flour), haggis (sheep's entrails), and herbed marrow bones featured prominently on the menu. This is in addition to friendlier fare like burgers and fish and chips, and several more California influenced dishes like tandoori roasted local halibut. The black pudding is excellent, and not too salty.

The beer selection is U.S. focused with several micro brews on tap, as well as bottled European beers. The cocktail list is thoughtful, and includes options made with rye whiskey and served in mason jars.

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Gastropub Recommendations:

Martins West Pub
831 Main Street
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 366-4366
www.martinswestgp.com

The Tipsy Pig
2231 Chestnut St
(between Pierce St & Avila St)
San Francisco, CA 94123
(415) 292-2300
www.tipsypigsf.com

Liverpool Lil's
2942 Lyon St
(between Greenwich St & Lombard St)
San Francisco, CA 94123
(415) 921-6664
www.liverpoollils.com

The Pig & Whistle
2801 Geary Blvd
(between Collins St & Wood St)
San Francisco, CA 94118
(415) 885-4779
www.pig-and-whistle.com

The Monk's Kettle
3141 16th St
(between Albion St & Valencia St)
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 865-9523
www.monkskettle.com

Magnolia Pub & Brewery
1398 Haight St
(between Central Ave & Masonic Ave)
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 864-7468
www.magnoliapub.com

The Alembic
1725 Haight Street
(between Cole St & Shrader St)
San Francisco, CA 94117
(415) 666-0822
www.alembicbar.com

Urban Tavern
333 O'Farrell St
(between Mason St & Taylor St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 923-4400
www.urbantavernsf.com

The Grand Tavern
3601 Grand Ave
(between Davidson Way & Weldon Ave)
Oakland, CA 94610
www.grandtavern.net

A cocktail book that helped start a movement...

2009-07-14T17:37:00.000-07:00

Over the past five years, there has been a resurgent interest in the classic cocktail. Cities such as Seattle, San Francisco, and New York all contain new bars specializing in pre-prohibition drinks.

One of the books that helped spawn the movement is titled "Vintage Spirits & Forgotten Cocktails." Originally published in 2004 by Ted Haigh, aka Dr. Cocktail, the book contains a multitude of very interesting cocktail recipes and the histories behind them. Haigh recently re-released an updated and expanded version that contains additional recipes, pictures, and resource sections about the locations of obscure ingredients.

While the recipes provide for hours of bar tending or home mixology fun, the stories are entertaining and provide useful background. The book makes a great read, or a fun conversation starter on an airplane.

Online bookstores such as Amazon.com currently carry the new version.

Of the included cocktails, one of the more fanciful recipes in name and taste is below, supposedly created by J.P. Morgan, of banking fame.

Alamagoozlum Cocktail (for 3 servings):

1/2 egg white
2 oz genever gin (Junipero or other strong gin also works)
2 oz water (melted ice can suffice)
1 1/2 oz Jamaica rum (preferably Wray & Nephew Overproof white rum)
1 1/2 oz Chartreuse (green or yellow)
1 1/2 oz gomme syrup (simple syrup)
1/2 oz orange curacao (Cointreau works)
1/2 oz Angostura (not an error)

Shake, strain into three glasses. Garnish with a lemon twist.

Tilted Travels: Sailing on the Bay

2009-07-06T18:32:00.000-07:00

For a city surrounded by water, surprisingly few residents have had the chance to sail on San Francisco Bay in a real sailboat. While taking the Blue & Gold ferry for drinks/brunch at Sam's in Tiburon is nice, it's not the same experience as traveling under sail on a boat tilted 45 degrees.

Fortunately, there are several charter services available. One of which is The Ruby, run by Captain Josh Pryor. Your host recently had the chance to take part in a Sunday afternoon cruise.

For a reasonable $40 per person, you get a 2.5 hour sail around the bay, which includes a lunch of deli sandwiches, fruit, snacks, and cookies. A decent selection of beer and wine is available for $4 a glass. Captain Josh is at the helm, and his First Mate, Elizabeth, acts as bartender and helps around the boat. Josh and Elizabeth are great hosts, and will gladly share information about the boat and journey including anecdotes about past voyages. Josh has been running the Ruby for close to 30 years, and Elizabeth has been on the boat for 5. Many passengers return over and over, including one late 20's passenger on our cruise who said she has been coming since she was 7 years old.

The boat itself is interesting, as it was constructed by Captain Josh himself in the late 1970's. The 63 ft long sloop is constructed of steel, and has a handy solid railing around the edge (as compared to a metal cord like many boats have). Considering how much the boat tilts while under sail (see picture), the railing is reassuring, especially after several beers. When not under sail, the boat is powered by a small antique 1940's diesel engine. For those who wish to take refuge from the wind/spray, the interior cabin is large enough to accommodate several passengers and is nicely appointed with white wainscoting. Notice the stuffed turtle head on the wall.Like the boat, its berthing location is also unique, being behind The Ramp, which is a fun, ramshackle, waterside outdoor bar/restaurant in the Dog Patch neighborhood of San Francisco. It's an excellent place for a post-cruise beer or cocktail. In addition, for those interested in historic industrial architecture, there is a very old dry dock with cranes across the inlet.

Captain Josh sails all year round, normally once or twice a day. It's best to call ahead to make reservations, and to learn the day's sailing time(s). Routes can differ depending on the wind and currents. Our route took us out past AT&T Park, under the Bay Bridge, and around Alcatraz to Angel island and return. For those that forget their warm clothes, there are several West Marine sailing jackets available for use on the boat.

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The Details:

Ruby Sailing Yacht
835 Terry Francois St
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 861-2165
www.rubysailing.com

The Ramp Restaurant
855 Terry Francois St
(between Illinois St & Mariposa St)
San Francisco, CA 94158
(415) 621-2378
www.ramprestaurant.com

Musings on "Mocktails"

2009-06-28T22:17:00.000-07:00

For many hosts, non-alcoholic drinks are typically an after thought at most parties. Perhaps there will be a bottle of sparkling water, maybe some soda, or a bottle of Martinelli's. While these options are perfectly fine, it's possible to create more interesting drinks with a little time and preparation. Designated drivers and teetotalers will appreciate it, as will those that prefer sophisticated beverages, but prefer to cut the alcohol after one or two drinks.

When making non-alcoholic "mocktails" it's important to emphasize the bitter or sour ingredients, to avoid something flat and sweet. Ingredients such as fresh citrus, tea (green or black), ginger, balsamic vinegar, white wine reductions, and commercial bitters (Angostura, Peychards, Fee Brothers, etc) can elevate the ordinary to extraordinary. While bitters typically include alcohol, the amount is virtually negligible if only using a few dashes.

The below two "mocktails" are refreshing for Summer. For those that abhor the thought of boozeless cocktails, both recipes work quite well with a splash of light rum.

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Strawberry Balsamic Cooler

1 ounce aged Balsamic vinegar
3 large diced fresh strawberries
3 ounces chilled smoky Oolong tea
1/2 tbl spoon agave syrup, or 1/2 tsp Stevia extract
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
Crushed ice
Sparkling water

Place diced strawberries into bowl with vinegar and marinate. Place strawberry mixture into a Collins glass. Add crushed ice and all remaining ingredients except for sparkling water. Make sure Oolong tea is a heavy brew. Stir with spoon. Top off with sparkling water, and lightly stir again. Garnish with a lemon wedge.

The Temperate Twizzle

4 ounces chilled concentrated green tea
2 tbl spoons white wine syrup (see below)
Juice of one fresh lime
2 dashes Angostura Bitters
1/2 tbl spoon agave syrup
2 crushed mint sprigs

Shake all together with high quality ice cubes/crushed ice. Strain into cocktail glass, and garnish with a lime twist. For concentrated tea, make a heavy brew by steeping for longer than normal. The ice cubes will add water to the mixture, providing the proper dilution.

White wine syrup: Reduce one bottle of sweet acidic wine in a saucer pan, which will cause the alcohol to vaporize. Un-oaked Sauvignon Blanc or Rieslings will be best. Simmer until liquid has a medium consistency. Drop small portion into ice water. If the liquid congeals, the reduction is complete. Store excess syrup in refrigerator for future use.

Note: Your host created the above drink, which is a variation of a tea cooler. A main difference is that this drink is designed to be served up in a cocktail glass.

The Toronto Cocktail: A Different Take on San Francisco's Favorite Bitter Liqueur

2009-06-22T15:01:00.000-07:00

Loved by some and despised by many, Fernet Branca is of one Italy's most potent herbal bitters. Originally formulated in 1845 by Bernardino Branca, Fernet is based on a closely guarded family recipe which includes saffron, gentian root (as in Angostura bitters), aloe, myrrh, rhubarb, and red cinchona bark mixed with a brandy based spirit. It has a pungent aroma and taste, which some describe as similar to Jagermeister without the sugar. At 40% alcohol, Fernet is considerably stronger than other Italian bitters including Campari and Cynar, which are both around 20% alcohol.

San Francisco has the distinction of being the City in the U.S. with the most drinkers who happen to love the product. San Francisco's love affair with the liqueur extends back to before Prohibition, and has only increased since. According to the Fratelli Branca company, which manufactures the liqueur, San Francisco consumes over 1300 cases per month, which equates to about 90% of U.S. consumption. For those familiar with the SF bar scene, it's not uncommon to see people drink shots of Fernet, often with a ginger ale chaser.

While many enjoy the taste bud blasting shot approach, there are several, arguably more pleasurable, ways to drink Fernet. One of these is in the Toronto Cocktail, which your host previously mentioned briefly in the post from May 26th, and is worth discussing again in more detail. This cocktail is a whiskey based cocktail that's a great alternative to a more traditional Manhattan or Sazerac.

The Toronto Cocktail is typically rye whiskey mixed with Fernet, sugar, and another bitter such as Angostura. A robust rye whiskey, such as Rittenhouse or Sazerac, is important in this drink since the whiskey needs to stand up to the assertive flavors of Fernet. Using a weaker whiskey like a Canadian or a wheated bourbon (i.e. Maker's Mark) will cause the drink to be unbalanced. If no rye whiskey is available, use a bourbon with a high amount of rye like Bulleit or Four Roses, which are both common at most higher end bars. As is the case with most whiskey drinks, it's important to stir this cocktail (vs. shake) to avoid excessive dilution from melting ice.

For a town where Fernet is so well known, there are surprisingly few bartenders that are familiar with this drink. Feel free to share the below recipe and perhaps you'll make a new friend.

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Toronto Cocktail
2 ounces rye whiskey (100 proof or greater is best)
1/4 ounce Fernet
1/4 ounce simple syrup or other sweetener
2 dashes Angostura Bitters (or other high quality aromatic bitters)

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed orange peel, or orange twist. Use more or less sweetener to taste.

Rails to Breakfast: San Carlos Depot Cafe

2009-06-17T15:14:00.000-07:00

Riding the rails between San Francisco and the Peninsula can turn up a number of surprises, one of which is the San Carlos Depot Cafe. The cafe is located in the former Southern Pacific train depot, which now serves as the San Carlos stop on the Caltrain.

Unique in California railroad architecture, the sandstone depot was constructed in 1888 in the Richardson Romanesque style. You might notice that the architecture has a lot in common with the old campus of Stanford University. Through his friendship with Leland Stanford, early San Carlos resident and builder Nathaniel Brittan reportedly hired architect Charles Coolidge to design the railroad depot. Coolidge's Boston firm Shepley, Rutan and Coolidge were the architects of Stanford University and they used the same brown sandstone from the same quarry used for the Stanford buildings. The depot was designed as a gateway for the City, in part to entice potential homeowners to purchase land. During the railroad grade separation project of the late 90's, Caltrain engineers chose to preserve the depot based on its history and its position on the National Register of Historic Places.

Over 20 years ago, the Depot Cafe moved into what was the former waiting room and telegraph office of the depot. The menu offers standard breakfast and lunch options, including an expanded menu on weekends with corned beef hash and Eggs Benedict. The food isn't particularly inventive, but you will find well prepared omelets, pancakes, hash browns and breakfast meats at reasonable prices. Try the bacon.

In addition to the the food, what makes the cafe most interesting is the decor. Above the old fireplace is a model steam engine, and just about every wall is covered with train photographs, maps, and memorabilia. Rail fans rejoice.

While it's easy to take a stop on the Caltrain for breakfast, it's also convenient to drive and use the Holly exit off U.S. 101. There are dedicated parking spots for the cafe within the Caltrain parking lot.

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Location Details:

San Carlos Depot Cafe
599 El Camino Real (Cross street San Carlos Ave)
San Carlos, CA 94070
(650) 595-0555

Open 7 days a week, 6:00 am until 3:00 pm.

Hoppy vodka? Not quite...

2009-06-08T13:41:00.000-07:00

The San Francisco Bay Area is known for its artisanal food and drink, including its locally produced wine and spirits. Most enthusiasts in the know are well aware of St. George Spirits (Hanger One Vodka, whiskies, and fruit brandies), Anchor Distilling (Rye whiskies and Gin), and Germain-Robin (distiller of fine brandies). However, far fewer are aware of a much smaller distillery, deep in Silicon Valley, named Essential Spirits.

Essential Spirits is the endeavor of David Classick and Andrea Mirenda, a husband and wife team who caught the distilling bug after spending time in France and at the Germain-Robin brandy distillery in Ukiah. Having a technology background, they both needed to get educated on distilling before deciding to open their distillery close to home in Mountain View. Rather than making brandy or whiskey, which typically require several years of aging in oak, or vodka, which has tons of market competition, the couple decided on making a unique un-aged German style spirit distilled from beer called Bierschnaps.

First produced in 1999, their Classick American Bierschnaps is a very unique spirit, as its the only one like it produced in the U.S. It's so unique, that the Federal ATF needed to create a special category for licensing the product. Unlike its German cousin, Classick uses a house made hoppy California style pale ale, similar to Sierra Nevada. He then distills the beer in a custom made Jean-Louis Stupfler copper pot still from France. The resulting product is clear like vodka, but has spicy undertones of the Northwestern Hops and American malt with a dry finish. It's an entirely different spirit than vodka in both flavor and mouthfeel. Bottled at 80 proof, it's a great substitute for vodka or gin in many drinks and makes a particularly good martini.

Over time, Essential Spirits has added other products to the portfolio including Napa Valley grappa, rum, and pear brandy. In addition, they also distill DH Krahn Gin in their pot still under a license agreement. As of press time, the distillery is not open for tours.

K&L Wines, a local merchant, carries several of Essential's products including the Bierschnaps, and also ships to home addresses.

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Locations Mentioned:

Essential Spirits
144 S Whisman Rd # A
Mountain View, CA 94041
(650) 962-0546

K&L Wines
3005 El Camino Real
Redwood City, CA 94061
(650) 364-8544
www.klwines.com

Bierschnaps Cocktails:

Bierchnaps Martini
2 ounces of Bierschnaps
1/2 ounce of dry vermouth
Dash of Angostura Bitters

Shake vigorously with ice, strain, and serve with an olive.

While your host usually prefers a generous pour of vermouth in the martini, it's best to utilize restraint in this cocktail to allow the subtleties of the Bierschnaps to shine through.

Modified Lime Rickey
2 ounces of Bierschnaps
1/2 ounce fresh lime juice
1 tsp of agave syrup
Dash of Angostura Bitters

Shake vigorously with ice, strain, and serve with a twist.

The agave syrup is a little more exciting than standard cane based simple syrup. Make sure to use a lighter variety, or the agave flavor will dominate. Whole Foods and Trader Joe's usually carry several brands.

For relaxing times...Make it Suntory time!

2009-06-02T13:01:00.000-07:00

Fans of the 2003 comedy, Lost in Translation, may recognize the above phrase as the slogan voiced by the character Bob Harris (Bill Murray) for Suntory brand whisky. For those outside of Japanese cultural and whisky enthusiast circles, this mention may have been their first exposure to the world of Japanese whisky, as Suntory as a brand has historical been more familiar for its melon flavored Midori liquer.

Until a few years ago, it was next to impossible to find Japanese whisky in the U.S. outside of Japanese restaurants and enclaves, save for a bottle of Super Nikka or Gold & Gold (both decent, but nondescript blended whiskies). The release of the movie more or less coincided with the release of the Suntory Yamazaki line of Japanese single malts in the U.S. market, the first of what will hopefully be many releases of premium Japanese malt on this side of the Pacific.

Founded in 1923 by Scotland educated Shinjiro Torii, Suntory is the oldest provider of Japanese whisky, and their Yamazaki product line consists of a 12 and an 18 year old single malt product distilled and bottled at the Yamazaki distillery, located in Shimamoto, Osaka, Japan. Manufactured in the Scotch style with imported Scottish barley malt, the whisky has scotch characteristics while being uniquely Japanese.

One differentiation is the use of Japanese oak in addition to sherry and bourbon barrels during the aging process. Japanese oak, which is a denser wood, adds a spicier element. In addition, the Japanese environment, with its unique terroir, affects the whisky during maturation. However, in a reference to its origins, the Japanese largely spell their whisky ending with a "y" as they do in Scotland, vs. an "ey" as is done in the U.S. and many other countries.

The late whisky critic Michael Jackson described the 12 year old as " A pioneering malt in Japan, for which Suntory deserve great credit. In its early days, it was rounded and delicate, as though wary of offending anyone. Now it is more intense, confident and elegant." Playboy Magazine gave the 18 year full marks (Yes, Playboy does, in fact, write some thoughtful liquor reviews). Your host personally enjoys the 18 year malt, as it's rich and dark without the smoke characteristic to many Scottish whiskies (apparently the Japanese dislike the taste of peat). Adding a little water to the whiskey will uncover aromas of fruit and strawberries.

Your host recently had the opportunity to attend a private tasting of several Suntory whisky products at the Guanxi Lounge of Shanghai 1930, a private cigar lounge within the art deco inspired Chinese restaurant, located in San Francisco's financial district. The tasting was lead by Gardner Dunn, North American Brand Ambassador for Suntory whisky, and Indah Marcelly, the local San Francisco based ambassador for Suntory products. Those familiar with the New York cocktail scene may know Gardner as a consultant for 33 Libations, a firm that consults on beverage programs.

Gardner walked attendees through Suntory history, with flair and colorful language, and provided samples of various Suntory products. Samples included the aforementioned 12 and 18 year Yamazaki single malts, as well as samples of component whiskies, including 12 year old cask strength (110 proof) whisky aged in Japanese, bourbon, and sherry woods. In addition, the standard Hibiki blended whisky, as well as the 17 year Hibiki blend in a lunar new year ceramic ox figure were available for tasting (See photo).

The Hibiki line, not yet available in the U.S., provided an interesting contrast to the more robust Yamazaki single malt line. The 17 year Hibiki was excellent, and had a silkier mouth feel and cleaner taste than the Yamazaki 18, characteristics of good whisky blending. Harking back to Lost in Translation movie references, the Hibiki line was the one featured in the mock commercials (look closely at the bottle in the movie). In Japan, blended whiskies have historically been more popular than single malts. Indah mentioned that neither the Hibiki, nor any other Suntory whiskey product, will be imported until distributors exhaust the 10,000 cases of Yamazaki product already shipped to the U.S.

This current presentation was a far cry from when Suntory first started to market Yamazaki in the U.S. market. At a tasting event your host attended a few years back, an older grey haired gentleman walked the audience through the nuances and subtleties of Japanese whisky. In a quest to appeal to younger audiences, Suntory appears to have moved on to more lively, hipper, spokespeople.

Expect to pay around $40 for a bottle of the 12 year Yamazaki, and between $80 and $110 for the 18 year. Most high end liquor stores in the Bay Area should carry the product. It's less prevalent in bars and clubs in San Francisco, but check out Whiskey Thieves, Nihon Whisky Lounge, Yoshi's, or any bar in Japantown.

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Locations Mentioned:

Shanghai 1930
133 Steuart Street
(between Howard & Mission Street)
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 896-5600
www.shanghai1930.com

Commentary: While the Guanxi lounge is private, anyone can eat in the restaurant, which offers Asian specialties and jazz music. It's one of a few restaurants in San Francisco located below street level. The bar usually stocks Yamazaki.

Whiskey Thieves
839 Geary St
(at Larkin St)
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 409-2063

Commentary: There is arguably no bar in SF with a better selection at such reasonable prices (Scotch, bourbon, Irish, craft, Japanese, etc). For many years, this bar allowed smoking due to a special owner-operator status (one of just a handful in San Francisco). This recently changed, and now you don't need to elbow aside chain smoking patrons at the bar on weekend nights. Located in the tenderloin, the atmosphere definitely has the dive bar vibe.

Nihon Whiskey Lounge
1779 Folsom St
(between 14th St & Erie St)
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 552-4400
www.nihon-whisky.com

Commentary: This upscale Japanese lounge offers an impressive whiskey list, as well as decent sushi and Asian food. It's definitely a good option if you are looking to dress up and have a whisky themed evening.

Yoshi's
1330 Fillmore St
(between Eddy St & Ellis St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 655-5600
www.yoshis.com

Commentary: Located in the revitalized Fillmore Jazz District, Yoshi's provides a nice bar setting, as well as the restaurant and Jazz theater. In addition to the Yamazaki line, Yoshi's sometimes carries the Nikka Gold&Gold, often priced cheap like a shot of Jim Beam.

A (Very) Classic Dry Martini

2009-05-28T16:25:00.000-07:00

More often than not, most people nowadays think of the Dry Martini as vodka based, shaken, with lots of ice and maybe just a touch of vermouth. Some bartenders leave out the vermouth entirely, going so far as proclaiming "Vermouth is for Cream Soup," as one well known bartender does here in San Francisco at the Connecticut Yankee. While the above preparation works well for some, it is a far cry from the original Dry Martini.

Historically, the Martini has been gin based, with a much higher proportion of dry vermouth. David Wondrich, acclaimed writer and authority on all things cocktails, discusses this issue in his book, Imbibe! (Penguin Books, 2008).

Wondrich references an early Dry Martini recipe, originally published in the Hoffman House Bartender's Guide from 1906. This recipe used equal parts vermouth and gin, along with a few dashes of orange bitters. It's important to use a classic London Dry style of gin in order to hold up to the vermouth. While modern and lighter citrusy gins such as local favorites Sarticious and N. 209 are great in their own right, they will not provide the balance necessary in this drink. Use more juniper forward gins like Beefeater, Tanqueray, or Bombay. If you prefer local craft spirits in your drink, Anchor Distilling's Junipero Gin works well. The vermouth should be the dry French Noilly Pratt, and the orange bitters can be Regan's #6. This drink should be stirred, not shaken, with chunks of good quality ice, store bought or made with purified water. Due to the subtleties of the drink, high quality ice is more important here than with a juice based cocktail.

Few bars will likely list this type of Martini on the menu, though most should be able to make it with some guidance. However, one bar in particular, the legendary Pegu Club of New York City, offers a variation of this classic style called the Fitty Fitty.

Fitty Fitty Martini

1 ounce dry gin
1 ounce dry vermouth
Few dashes of orange bitters

Stir with ice in mixing glass. Strain into cocktail glass and garnish with a lemon twist.

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Below are several bars in San Francisco where you can drink this style of Martini in worthy historic surroundings.

Bix
56 Gold St
(between Balance St & Montgomery St)
San Francisco, CA 94133
(415) 433-6300
www.bixrestaurant.com

Commentary: Classic styled restaurant in the historic Jackson Square neighborhood. Art Deco styling with columns, soaring atrium, commissioned art work, and nightly jazz or piano music. Try the steak tartare.

Elite Cafe
2049 Fillmore St
(between California St & Pine St)
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 346-8400
www.TheEliteCafe.com

Commentary: Art Deco roadhouse styling, originally founded as the Lincoln Grill in 1928, and recently renovated back to classic style decor. Check out the unique light fixtures, and try the deviled eggs.

Big Four Restaurant
1075 California St
The Huntington Hotel
(between Cushman St & Taylor St)
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 771-1140
www.big4restaurant.com

Commentary: The bar has rich wood finishing with dark hues and is in a building constructed in 1922. Good bar menu to accompany the martini. Try the chicken pot pie.

Maxfield's Pied Piper Bar
The Palace Hotel
2 New Montgomery Street
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 512-1111
www.maxfields-restaurant.com

Commentary: This bar arguably contains one of the finest bar murals of all time, The Pied Piper of Hamelin, painted in 1909 by Maxfield Parish. The mural alone is worth a visit. The decor is similar to the Big 4 Restaurant, with dark wood paneling.

Butterfly Bar
Hotel Majestic
1500 Sutter St
(between Gough St & Octavia St)
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 441-1100
www.cafemajesticsf.com

Commentary: Though the Cafe Majestic recently closed, the adjacent Butterfly Bar is still open and provides light Victorian styling and unique actual butterfly displays. The Hotel Majestic, constructed in 1904, is one of the only wooden SF Hotels still in existence to survive the 1906 earthquake and fire.

Bar Drake
Sir Francis Drake Hotel
450 Powell St
(between Sutter St & Post St)
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 395-8555
www.sirfrancisdrake.com

Commentary: Though the bar itself is a new creation, it is located within the lobby of the Sir Francis Drake hotel, constructed in 1928. Unlike the modern Clock Bar at the neighboring St. Francis Hotel, Bar Drake incorporates classic styling with marble and brass. A bar has existed in some form at this location for a number of years.

Elixir
3200 16th St
(between Guerrero St & Spencer St)
San Francisco, CA 94103
(415) 552-1633
www.elixirsf.com

Commentary: The current owners claim a saloon has existed on the site since 1858, making this likely the oldest drinking location in town. In 2003, the bar was renovated to a more classic styling with stained wood and brass.

House of Shields
39 New Montgomery Street
(between Jessie St & Stevenson St)
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 975-8651
www.houseofshields.com

Commentary: Founded in 1908, this bar recently celebrated its 100th anniversary. Drink a cocktail or listen to live music in subdued Edwardian surroundings that haven't changed much since construction.

83 Proof
83 1st St
(between Elim St & Mission St)
San Francisco, CA 94105
(415) 296-8383
www.83proof.com

Commentary: This is the new kid on the block, though it is likely one of the most straight forward cocktail bars in San Francisco constructed in a classic style. There is no set cocktail list and the bartenders are highly knowledgeable. If you happen to stump the bartender, he may look up the recipe on his iPhone.

Redwood City Revisited

2009-05-27T13:14:00.000-07:00

Redwood City is often overlooked among the more upscale Peninsula towns of Burlingame, Menlo Park, Palo Alto, and Mountain View. In fact, you're not likely to hear most non-residents say "Let's spend an afternoon in Redwood City", unless they need to visit the San Mateo County Civic Center or maybe grab some cheap Latin food on Middlefield Rd after visiting Costco.

Over the past few years, your host has passed through Redwood City countless times on the Caltrain on the way to the office, and thought it was time to revisit.

Incorporated in 1867, Redwood City is one of the oldest cities in San Mateo County, and has a number of historic sights remaining. Due to a recent downtown revitalization effort, the historic center is now a pleasant place to stroll. Of the old buildings present, the most notable are the old San Mateo County Courthouse and the Fox Theater (See pictures).

The courthouse was constructed in 1910, and though smaller, rivals San Francisco City Hall in opulence. Inside lies one of the largest stained glass domed rotundas in Northern California. The building currently houses the San Mateo County History Museum, which has several interesting exhibits, as well as a restored courtroom with its own stained glass ceiling. Mosaics line the hallways and rotunda floor. Fronting the courthouse is a new downtown plaza. In 2006, the County removed a building that occupied the sight, and restored the original columned facade.

Across the plaza from the courthouse is the Fox Theater, a venue constructed in 1928 as a Vaudeville house in the Moorish art deco style. It currently houses the Fox and Little Fox theaters and supports numerous live acts throughout the year. One can occasionally wander into the ornate lobby and theater outside of performance times.

Bisecting the Plaza is Broadway Street, which travels the length of Downtown. At the Intersection of Broadway and Main to the East lies a collection of several historic commercial structures including the Sequoia Hotel and the domed Fitzpatrick Building, constructed in 1899. Upon construction, the Fitzpatrick Building housed the first bank between San Francisco and San Jose. Notice the ornate late Victorian design elements of the building. The whole district is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

At the other end of Broadway past the railroad tracks lies a collection of interesting stores and restaurants including the City Pub, with good burgers, and the Gourmet Haus Staudt Gifts and Cafe, a great German store and eatery. In business for over 25 years, the owners have recently added a pub and beer garden to the back of the store. Try a sausage or two with your stein of beer.

Near the railroad tracks on Broadway, there is a re-creation of an historic Redwood City sign with the slogan "Climate Best by Government Test." There were originally two signs that stood at either end of the city on El Camino Real, but were removed in prior years.

A number of parking garages offer cheap parking in the vicinity, including the Marshall Street Garage on Marshall between Jefferson and Main, where the history museum validates for a few hours.

Locations Mentioned:

San Mateo County History Museum (Courthouse)
2200 Broadway Street
Redwood City, CA 94061
(650) 299-0104
www.historysmc.org
Tuesday – Sunday,
10 a.m. – 4 p.m.

Fox Theater
2215 Broadway Street
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 369-4119
www.foxdream.com

City Pub
2620 Broadway Street
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 363-2620
www.city-pub.com

Gourmet Haus Staudt Gifts and Cafe
2615 Broadway Street
Redwood City, CA 94063
(650) 364-9232
www.gourmethausstaudt.com

Bitter in Seattle

2009-05-26T14:03:00.000-07:00

Your host returned from a great Memorial Day Weekend in Seattle, one of the few times when the weather has actually been more agreeable than in San Francisco. This past weekend served as a great opportunity to visit several cocktail bars in the Emerald City, and try drinks based on the bitter liquors of Italy and France.

First up was the Zig Zag cafe, of Pike's Place Market. Reasonable prices, gin braised prawns and lamb burgers, and unique drinks. The decor is dark and artsy, with a nice patio on the Pike Place Hill Climb. In particular, the Trident Cocktail is tasty. Concocted by cocktail guru (and MSFT Director) Robert Hess, the Trident balances the bitter flavor of Italian Cynar (artichoke based liquor) with Aquavit, peach bitters and sherry. Apparently, Zig Zag goes through more Cynar in a year than all the bars combined in the State of Washington. Enjoy a cocktail or two here in a relaxed environment. Most cocktails under $9.

Next up was Vessel, decidedly more upscale and modern. Though located in an historic building next to the 5th Ave Theater in Downtown, the interior is very minimalist, with high ceilings and clean lines. The drinks are very good, though pricier at $12. They made an excellent rendition of the Widow's Kiss, a bitter cocktail from 1895, utilizing apple brandy and three types of bitters, including the French Chartreuse and Benedictine. The bartenders here wear vest and tie, reminiscent of several San Francisco spots. Though the cocktails are on the small side, they also tend to stir, rather than shake most drinks, which leads to a less diluted end product.

Finally, we head to Sun Liquor, located on Capitol Hill. Asian decor, friendly vibe, and reasonable prices ($7-$9 per cocktail). There is a seasonal cocktail list, but the knowledgeable bar staff should be able to mix most drinks up. Our bar tender made an excellent Toronto Cocktail, essentially rye whiskey, Fernet, and bitters. Again, the tendance here is to stir rather than shake most drinks.

Seattle Cocktail Bars:

Zig Zag Cafe
1501 Western Avenue
on the Pike Hillclimb
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 625-1146
www.zigzagcafe.net

Vessel
1312 5th Ave
Seattle, WA 98101
(206) 652-0521
www.vesselseattle.com

Sun Liquor
607 Summit Ave E
(between Mercer St & Roy St)
Seattle, WA 98102
(206) 860-1130
www.sunliquor.com

Bitter Cocktails:

The Trident
1 ounce dry sherry
1 ounce Cynar
1 ounce aquavit
2 dashes peach bitters

Garnish: Lemon twist
Stir with ice in a mixing glass . Strain into a cocktail glass.

Widow's Kiss
2 ounce calvados or apple jack
1 ounce yellow Chartreuse
1 ounce Benedictine
1-2 dashes Angostura bitters

Garnish: Lemon twist
Shake with ice in cocktail shaker. Strain into a cocktail glass.

Toronto Cocktail
2 ounces rye whiskey (100 proof or greater is best)
1/4 ounce Fernet
1/4 ounce simple syrup or other sweetener
2 dashes Angostura Bitters (or other high quality aromatic bitters)

Stir with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Garnish with a flamed orange peel, or orange twist. Use more or less sweetener to taste.

Greetings!

2009-05-26T10:25:00.000-07:00

I bring to you the Left Coast Bon Vivant! Random musings on the unique and different for discerning gentlemen (and ladies).

From a home base in San Francisco, CA, your host will cover thoughts on a variety of leisure topics including fine spirits, good food, and great sights up and down the Left Coast. The theme will be to entertain and inform...whether it be to plan a great weekend escape with a lady, or to add that different touch to the evening cocktail party.

Stay tuned and enjoy!